Wednesday, October 29, 2008

To the outports, in search of fish!


Fortune, Newfoundland. After exploring the capital for a few days, and after gathering up as much of the current fishing news as possible, I’ve now made my way to the southern coast. I’m looking to check out the fisheries in the town of Fortune, population roughly 2,000, located just south of the town of Grand Bank and on the tip of the Burin Peninsula. A beautiful little town here. Local fisheries are well developed for cod, snow crab, lobster, capelin, whelk, and squid. Other fish, including haddock and pollock are frequently delivered as bycatch. Boats in the harbor range form 16 to 70 feet, although it seems that most of the boats around at this time of year are between 34 and 45 feet.

In a town this size a newcomer can’t simply slip in unnoticed. Small town affairs avoid the eyes of few. The first couple of nights I’ve slept under the stars, definitely pushing the limits of my sleeping bag’s thermal capabilities. This, due to stubborn and foolish tendencies, is nothing new for me. Weather around these parts is variable this time of year, but wind is frequent, and sub-freezing temps are not uncommon. Luckily, no rain so far, and days have been packed with checking out boats and “fish talk”, which to my delight, every resident seems as keen to do. Lots of valuable insight offered up for those who want to listen, filter, and salt. And everybody I speak with seems to know where I’ve slept the past few nights, and any other information I’ve passed up to others in town. I’d better keep my stories consistent…

Some of the boats have wrapped fishing up for the season, but the boats remaining are primarily rigged to fish cod with bottom gillnets. This is a method I’ve never seen before, and I’ll describe in more detail later. It seems that many of the boats fish any and all palatable weather and shift through a variety of fisheries: snow crab with pots in April, lobstering with traps in June or so, whelk fishing with pots all summer, then fishing cod with longline or gillnet gear in the fall. This is different in some ways from Maine and Alaskan fisheries, which seem to be outfitted and dedicated for one or a couple of fisheries, but seldom four.

The Newfoundland accent, especially once out of St. John’s, is truly noteworthy. I was born and raised in a state known for it’s distinctive, thick coastal accent, but this is an entirely new ballgame. When talking with folks, there are often entire sentences where I can’t make out a word. Hard to believe that we’re speaking a common language, with the exception of a few catch phrases I’ve picked up on. This is mainly that almost every sentence ends with a mutation of the words “boy” or “buddy”…although it’s more like “yis b’y” and “g’d bidy” to my ears. The accent is great, but I’m having a heck of a time not nodding in affirmation to a completely unknown question. Who knows what I’m committing to…

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